Dept. of Word Lists
Clothing Design Words
Designing clothes isn't just a leisurely prance down the catwalk: It's art and industry with its very own, often technical, language. The words themselves may seem familiar to us non-designers, but the meanings are anything but. We called New York fashion designer Mary Ping to help us decipher this particular tongue.
Grain "Refers to the direction of the threads of a fabric. When fabric is woven you have a warp and a weft. The warp are yarns that run parallel to the loom, the weft are yarns that run perpendicular."
Shuttle "A tool on a loom to pass yarn through warp to form the weft."
Bias "The diagonal direction of yarn. You have yarns running vertically, yarns running horizontally -- the warp and the weft -- and the bias is the 45 degree angle between those two. It gives fabric a natural stretch. When people refer to a "bias-cut dress" it means the entire fabric is placed on the biased grain, or direction. So the dress has a tendency to cling to your body more, because it's stretching out more."
Allowance "The extra fabric that you leave around your pattern piece when you cut it, so you have enough fabric with which to sew the pieces together."
Seam "The sewn edge of a garment, how two pieces are joined together."
Dart "A triangle-shaped piece on a pattern that helps to shape the garment."
Hem "The bottom opening of a garment, like on a skirt, or if you're talking about trousers, where your feet stick out."
Bobbin "The smaller spool of thread that sits underneath a sewing machine. You have your "top" thread that goes to the needle and the bottom thread from the bobbin that catches and secures it."